I’ve lost count.
So, Sunday (day 14), as I’d suspected, we stayed in, did laundry, ate curry, and slept in preparation for departing for Osaka on Monday morning.
Monday (day 15), we got up and made it to our train on time. We got there early and bought bento boxes before boarding the train. I got shumai and Jermaine got katsu. The train ride was good, but it made me sick to my stomach. My brain has been unable to deal with motion since my trip to Greece.
Once we got off the train in Osaka, mom found us immediately on the platform and there was an almost tearful reunion between the two of us. After we hugged, she proceeded to lead us through three train stations on our way back to Kyuhojiguchi, where the house is located. Mom had me lead us from the train station back to the house, because I’d told her I remembered how to get there. On the way, though, we stopped at a bakery and got a bunch of strawberry shortcake slices and some other goodies for dessert and at a meat shop, for the meat for dinner.
Sweets:

Meats:

Meat, and food in general, in Japan is a spectacular experience. I would feel sorry for vegetarians and vegans, missing out, but vegetables are better here, too, so it evens out.
When we got back to the house, Jermaine and I hung out on the back patio and mom brought us some seaweed chips and tea while we read. Soon, Nana, Kayoko’s oldest brother, Yasukazu’s daughter arrived to visit with us. She’s 7, and she played with the dog, Lychee, in front of us to get our attention. When we came inside and sat on the couch in the living room, Nana would go outside and knock on the window behind us and when we looked back, she’d hide. It was cute.
Lychee:

After a while, Sakiko, Kai’s older sister, came home and visited with us for a while. It was so nice to see her again! She got married two years ago to Keigo, who also lives at Okasan and Otosan’s house while Keigo goes to law school. Sakiko told me that Keigo wouldn’t be home until after dinner, but I was excited to finally meet him. They were dating the last time I was in Osaka (7 or 8 years ago) and he was actually studying in England at the time, so I never got a chance to meet him.
Soon, Machi, Yasukazu’s wife, and Shougo, Yasukazu’s 5 year old son, arrived. Shougo had been at Judo practice so he was wearing his judo outfit. They arrived around the same time that Otosan (dad) arrived, so we were all introduced at the same time.
Jermaine and I read until dinner was ready. Okasan made us dinner! She’s the best cook.
Beef and Lettuce:

Wieners and Tomato and Cucumber Salad:

Eggplant with Peanut Sauce and Jellyfish:

After dinner we ate the sweets we’d bought on the way home and then Nana, Shougo, Jermaine, Sakiko, Otosan and I played a card game. Shougo was pretty upset he wasn’t winning, and he made the funniest faces!
Playing Cards:



Machi is very pregnant with a baby boy, and will give birth at the end of this month (she knows the exact date because she’s delivering via c-section), but she played with Shougo and exhibited no signs of physical duress.
Machi and Shougo:

Before they left, we took a photo with the kids:

Not much later, Keigo came home and we met! He was really nice, and spoke English, which was nice. But, we were pretty tired, so we went up to bed and read for a while. Not too long after we got in there, into our futons and were reading, the door to our room was flung open. Both Jermaine and I thought it was someone coming to say goodnight to us, but who waltzes in like they own the place? The dog, Lychee. Mom had told us that while Kenji’s there, he sleeps in the room that we were in, and I guess the dog believes that it’s his room, too.
Lychee and Jermaine:

Lychee actually spent the night snuggled up in my futon.
Tuesday, Day 16:
We started our day by visiting a bread shop and getting some stuff to eat on the train on our way to Kyoto. We had been told that it would take us 2 hours to get to Kyoto, but we both agreed that this was probably an exaggeration. On our way into the station, we ran into Keigo, who goes to school in Kyoto, and he helped us to find where we were supposed to be going, but then had to take a different train into Kyoto.
Getting from Kyohogiguchi to Osaka was fast, and we thought we’d proved we were right about it not taking 2 hours to get there, but then the last train took FOREVER! Yes, it is 2 hours from Kyuhogiguchi to Kyoto, for reals. Once we got off the train, we got some cash from the post office and bought bus tickets to Kyomizu temple.
Kyomizu is my favorite temple so far in Japan. It was built in honor of Kannon, the Buddhist goddess of mercy, and is also the site of a spring, that you can drink from. Its built onto a forested hill with a great view of Kyoto.
Kyomizu:


You wash your hands with the water that comes out of the dragon, before you enter the temple’s main grounds.


Another Hand Washing Station:

These were in front of most of the shrines. The idea is that you wash your hands before praying.
This is the shrine that you just washed your hands for:

All in the forested hill around the temple were these signs. I asked Kai about them and she said that she thinks that they’re marking trees that have been dedicated to families that donated money to the temple. They looked amazing:


You can see this temple in the distance from Kyomizu. We walked out to it, it was really old.

Here it is, up close:

Looking back towards Kyomizu:

The whole forest is covered in maple trees:


I’m sure it would be beautiful in the fall.







When we got home from Kyoto, mom took me, Jermaine, Sakiko and Keigo out for dinner at “the best okonomiyaki restaurant in Osaka.” It was pretty awesome. We ate SO MUCH FOOD! And, just when we thought it was all over, they brought out more food! Crazy! I forgot my camera, so no pictures of the food, sorry.
The whole time we were in Osaka, we’d been wearing hoodies and long sleeved shirts, trying to keep our tattoos a secret, because Kai had told us that her parents, mom included, really did not like tattoos and we were trying to be respectful. The night before, however, Sakiko had found out about our tattoos because I showed her pictures from our trip. I thought she would keep it a secret, but at dinner, she outed me! I was just sitting there, eating my food and Saki says to mom, like out of nowhere, “Heidi has a tattoo on her arm, have you seen it?” Well, of course she hadn’t! Luckily, mom was ok with the tattoos. Turns out, it’s really dad who’s not ok with them. Mom tried to read my tattoo, but again, the script proved too old and I go on without knowing what’s on my arm. They all agreed though that it was probably part of a haiku. Nice!
Wednesday, Day 17:
We set off for Nara on Wednesday, to see Todaiji, which either has the world’s largest Buddha, or the world’s largest wooden structure, which the Buddha is inside. I can’t remember. Nevertheless, it was awesome.
First, there are “tame” deer, which you can feed. Unfortunately, the deer will come after you, even if you don’t have food, so they’ve always kinda creeped me out.

Jermaine and the Deer:

There were a lot of school kids there, these ones are feeding the deer:

You could easily get very close to the deer:

Past the deer was the temple:

The gate:

There were two of these huge, wooden statues guarding the gates:

This is the second gate, these let you into the main grounds of the temple:

This is Todaiji Temple:

Buddha!

Idol next to Buddha!

Side of Buddha!

Another GOD:

Heads!

There was a hole cut out of one of the pillars that was supposedly the size of Buddha’s nostril. Climbing through it was good luck, so a bunch of the kids visiting climbed through:




To give you an idea of how small that hole is, here’s the trip through from the front:



It looks a bit like the column is giving birth to the boy, if you ask me.
Idol to the right of Buddha:

Leaving Todaiji:

On the way back to the train station Jermaine and I stopped for food, soba and sushi:

When we got back to Osaka, we read more, packed and said goodbye to mom before heading back out to the train to get back to Tokyo. Once we were back, we ate curry and went to bed.
Thursday, Day 18:
Finally, at the end of this insanely long post! On Thursday, Kai treated us to a trip to the Studio Ghibli Museum. For those who aren’t familiar with Studio Ghibli, that’s the group who is responsible for such wonderful movies as My Neighbor Totoro, Nausica and the Valley of the Wind, Laputa (Castle in the Sky), Princess Mononoke, and Spirited Away, to name a few. I LOVE Ghibli movies, and so does Jermaine (one of the reasons I love him).
We met Kai at the train at 11am, and headed to the part of town that the museum is located in. This part of town has a really nice park, with an awesome open air cafe, that we ate lunch at.
Cat I saw along the way, the sign says “do not touch”:

Cafe:




Food:
My Green Curry:

Kai’s food, I don’t remember what she got:

Jermaine’s Food, again, don’t remember what this one’s called:

After lunch, we met with Kai’s friend, Yama, and headed to the museum. We weren’t allowed to take photos inside the museum, but these are some I took outside:
As we arrived, Yama, Jermaine and Kai:

The Building:



Robot from Laputa:

Me and Kai with the Robot from Laputa:

Jermaine and Robot from Laputa:

The inside of the museum was totally amazing. It managed to capture the fantasy of the Ghibli movies in a totally honest and non-cheesy way. It made me want to cry. There were scale examples of the workstations of the creators and a scale, furry cat bus that kids could climb on. Circular stairways up, sky bridges, this really cool room that described the process of film-making. Seriously, awesome. There is even a movie theater where they show a short cartoon made especially for the museum every 20 minutes. We got to see a movie about a water spider and a water skipper. Jermaine and I were initially disappointed that we wouldn’t be able to understand the movie, since it would be in Japanese, but we were excited none the less to see an original movie. Then, to our surprise, there was no speaking in the movie so everyone could understand. AWESOME!
After the movie, we’d pretty much explored the whole museum, so we went to the museum’s cafe, which I had sort of expected to be lame, you know, like a theme park eating facility. But NO!!!!!! It was totally amazing! There was a sink where you could wash your hands before eating and everything was just like something out of a Ghibli movie, but again, not in a cheesy way. The outdoor cafe served beer “from The Valley Of the Wind!” and all the food served in the indoor cafe was completely beautiful looking, and delish. Everyone working looked nice, and they were all totally professional and looked like they wanted to be there. You could watch them preparing your food! I was so excited. It was a perfect day, completely.
Food:
Jermaine’s Katsu Sandwhich:

My corn soup and fresh bread:

Yama’s strawberry shortcake, I had one too!:


Kai’s Crepe with Pumpkin cream and parmesean (sp?) cheese:

Jermaine’s coffee, it was called the Straw Hat Cafe:

Yama’s Sunset Cream Soda, with actual dollop of ice cream:

My Blue Sky Cream Soda, they both had ice cream and real straw straws:

After that, we were spent. We walked back through the same park we started out in and headed back to Ropongi for dinner with Kenji, Kai’s second oldest brother. On the way, Kai called Yutaka for us to help us talk about the irezumi tattoos we were hoping to get the next day, Friday. Turns out he was working in Ropongi, so he joined us for dinner!
We ate at the restaurant that inspired the bloody Japanese fight scene in Quentin Tarantino’s movie Kill Bill. It was pretty rad, but we didn’t get to sit indoors, it was too full. Outside was fine, though, it was warm enough out. We were all still pretty full from lunch, so we just ordered appetizers.
Food:



Kai and Kenji:

Jermaine and Yutaka:

Heidi and Jermaine:

So, as I said before, Yutaka was there to talk about the irezumi that Jermaine and I were interested in scheduling with the tattoo artist that Yutaka was friends with. Turns out, the tattoo artist is a member of a very famous and talented tattoo family, the Hori family. His name is Horimasa. The design that I wanted, a peony (or botan in Japanese), was no problem, but Jermaine’s tattoo, a baku (or a dream eater) was something that Horimasa had never done before and would take at least 8 hours to complete, so that wasn’t possible on Friday. Yutaka said that Horimasa would do my irezumi, but he’d just talk to Jermaine about his design and we’d schedule it for some time next week. Yutaka had taken the day off from work on Friday so he could help us get out to Horimasa’s house which is located in Ashikaga, quite some distance from Tokyo.
Kenji paid for dinner! So nice! We left to get home and go to sleep in preparation for meeting Yutaka at the train station in Kita Senju the next day at 10am.